In my opinion, Koyasan offers one of the coolest experiences in Japan: a temple stay. And it's exactly what it sounds like. You stay at a temple - a real functioning temple, with real monks that live there. If you're thinking, "wow, that sounds cool," then you'd be right. It is really cool. And this blog post will tell you a bit about why.
But first...
Where is Koyasan?
Koyasan is in Wakayama prefecture. And if you're looking for that on the map, find Kyoto and then look directly south. Google maps says it's about a 2 hour train ride from Osaka, a 4 hour train trip directly south from Kyoto. And then from Tokyo it's about 13 hours (so it's worth it to fly to Osaka first unless you've got some time to burn).
Also as the name suggests: Koyasan is a mountain (san = mountain). So part of your journey will have amazing mountain views.
How to Get to Koyasan?
So if you're using the JR pass, then this website has a great guide on how to get there on JR lines. Personally, I made the trip from another place in Wakayama (Shirahama). And I cannot remember the route, but I know that I was able to do most of the trip with my JR rail pass. So the JR lines do have a route to Koyasan.
Once you get to a station called Gokurakubashi, you'll have to make a switch to a cable car. And when they say cable car, it's like a vertical train that follows a steep track up the mountain. I had never been on anything like it before, and it was definitely surreal how steep the track was. The cable car on its own feels like an adventure. Make sure you have adequate funds, as I don't think the cable car nor the bus at the top are covered by your JR rail pass.
Pro-tip: sit closer to the driver for the best views! Looking through the front window helps with motion sickness, too, since some of the track is surrounded by trees and there isn't much to see out the side windows.
How to Stay with Monks at a Temple Stay
Back when I went, there was only one way to book a temple stay on Koyasan. The website called "Japanese Guest House" was the only portal that allowed for easy booking between the temples. I've seen other bloggers show that there are now some temples listed on Expedia, so that could also be an option.
But the main pointer I have to offer is this: BOOK EARLY. Koyasan is famous, and the temples have limited space. There are people all over the world who are taking coach tours up the mountain, and book a lot of rooms. When I went in early April (where it was still pretty cold on the mountain), my temple housed a huge bus full of people from France. There were a handful of other guests like myself, but not a lot.
I made my reservation about a month or two before, and the temple I was booked into was one of the last available even then. Now that there are more options to book, I can imagine that they sell out even further in advance. So as soon as you decide to add Koyasan and a temple stay to your Japan itinerary, BOOK THE TEMPLE FIRST!
The customer service from the staff behind the Japanese Guest House website was absolutely amazing, too. They try their best to make sure the temple is a good fit for you, and they get back really fast for any inquiries. I'd highly recommend giving them a try if you're heading to Koyasan! The link above can show you which temples they have connections with.
Which Temple to Stay At on Koyasan
Because of low availability and some requests I had, I ended up staying at Rengejo-In, which is a Buddhist temple. It's on the more expensive side of things, and it's a little far from the famous Okunoin cemetery, but I think it's absolutely worth it.
This temple is also gorgeous, and has a lot of spaces to explore and see. It has a few carefully tended rock gardens, and a large central garden that many rooms look onto (the view is amazing at night and in the morning).
When I went to check in, the monks were super pleasant. They needed to copy my passport (make sure to get it back!), and they took payment in cash. SO TAKE ENOUGH CASH WITH YOU. I'm not sure if they have other options to pay nowadays, but you could always double check with whoever you book through. I think a few of them spoke English, and there were also signs in English for directions around the temple.
Where to Eat:
These stays also come with a (vegetarian) dinner and breakfast, so you don't have to go anywhere else. This worried me a lot since I have tummy issues and so many sensitivities. I had wanted to control my meals myself. But I was actually pleasantly surprised. I had no tummy issues after eating pretty much everything they offered, AND I felt great. Obviously double check if there's anything you're allergic to (like soy). But personally...I found the food they offered to be an amazing experience.
And in terms of seating, there was a giant room for everyone to gather in. We got to pick our spots, except for a place which was separated for a specific group. This may have changed because of the events over the last few years (there may be special barriers or other rules). But in the past, the picture below is what it looked like. People were more or less on time for dinner, but breakfast was a rolling-arrival event. I had the room to myself after the meditation, and finished just as others were filing in.
The Rooms:
The rooms themselves do *not* have heating. There is a kotatsu which offers some warmth, but when you settle in to sleep: it gets cold. So if you're travelling in the winter/spring/fall, make sure to bring some extra layers with you. On the table will be a schedule of things going on - when dinner is, when breakfast is, and when the meditation starts in the morning. There's also a kettle, some tea, and some mugs.
They provide some clothes (Yukata, I think?) that you can change into, too. But if you're plus size - it might not cover you entirely. DON'T PANIC - you don't *need* to wear this to dinner/breakfast/meditation. Many people do, but I didn't and it was okay. If it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. And there's no shame in that.
When you're at dinner, the monks will come by and set up the futon for you to get ready to sleep. Bear in mind that it's just one layer, and the pillow was also a bit low to the ground. So be prepared for the firmness of the floor. I think I ended up putting my backpack under my head to get a little more lift. But I remember having a hard time falling asleep because I wasn't used to such a firm surface beneath me.
This room was for one or two people, but they do have bigger rooms. So keep in mind that not every room will be this small! And the view was GREAT.
Morning Meditation
I didn't get pictures of this, obviously. It's an official ceremony where they expect people to be respectful, and was conducted entirely in Japanese. Not everyone showed up. It wasn't a requirement. But it was worth it for the experience. It did feel like a nice calm start to the day.
Other temples might have different requirements, so make sure you check this when you're booking. But since I had seen a lot of the guests the night before (while exploring the hallways), I knew that not everyone was there.
Bathrooms and Shower Rooms:
These two things were separate. The shower space is communal and separated into men/women spaces. The bathrooms had stalls, and I think they were also separated for men/women. They were extremely clean, and a lot more modern than I expected. So I think they've done a lot to make sure guests feel comfortable.
Pro-tip: the shower room gets VERY busy once everyone has checked in, done some exploring, and had dinner. So keep that in mind if you're a bit shy and don't like crowds.
Final Thoughts: Is Koyasan Worth It?
DEFINITELY YES. I had so many new experiences just at this temple stay alone that I've never been able to forget it, and I've always wanted to go back. I regret that I had such little time, and wish I could have spent a few days there. It takes me time to feel open to exploring, and so I didn't get to try everything that I wanted to. Supposedly they run different workshops and events, and I would have loved to have tried. But...I was on limited time. So I ended up just wandering around, and soaking up the temple stay.
But if you've never stayed at a temple before, or if you've never interacted with a real monk, then those two things alone make Koyasan worth it. And even though there was a coach of tourists staying at my temple, I hardly saw them...and they didn't impact my trip very much. So Koyasan still felt like a place for pilgrims and monks.
I hope to make it back there some day. If you're considering the trip: take a chance and try it! It's definitely a worthwhile experience, and a beautiful place.